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Storage Box Seat Plans

DIY Outdoor Storage Chest KID SAFE

Man I got stuff laying all over my yard. I got a toy here. A toy over their. Here. Dead body. Here. I don’t know what that was. (sigh), time to do something about this. An outdoor storage chest that’s safe for kids. The lid won’t fall down on little heads and little fingers won’t be pinched. Just what moms ordered. Grab a materials and cut list from simply easy diy dot com. Then you can cut all your boards to length in whatever form, fashion or other you deem appropriate. I however, built this before I put that list together, so your going to see me wing it.

Do as the monkey says. Not as the monkey does. or some variation of those two sayings. I think I just called myself a monkey. The legs and the side slats of the storage chest will be joined using dadoes. However, if you don’t have a router or router table not to worry. You can use pocket holes to do the same thing. I’ll have a separate design plan for that version as well. Check the description. I’ll have all the links.

So for the dadoes my router fence I’m going to set that so that I’m about a quarter inch from the outside edge of the board. That will allow me to route the dadoes for both sides of each leg without needing to readjust the fence. I’ll talk more about that over on the blog post. A couple pieces of blue tape set the start and stop points for my dadoes because I don’t want them going all that way through the board. Start at one piece of the tape. End at the other. And that is pretty much what I’m looking for.

I’ll just repeat that process for all four legs. To make sure I route these dadoes on the right sides of all my legs I like to just set them up as they would be in the project. Also don’t forget to check out the extended bonus footage tutorial over on simply easy homesteading. As always you can check the description. Also the link will be at the end of the tutorial. A little sanding to clean up those edges. you can square off those ends with a chisel if you like. I’m not building fine furniture here so I routed mine a little longer than needed so i wouldn’t have to do that.

The length of the dadoes, that’s one thing. The width of the dadoes is something else. They need to fit snug. Now what I did is I just used my thickness planer to plane the boards to a thickness that was going to fit in that dado snugly. If you don’t want to mess with all that, like I said earlier, you can go to my website simply easy diy dot com and get the design plans for the pocket hole version as well. Add some clamps and wait about 30 mins. Once the glue is set, remove the clamps and now I can set the other set of slats for the outdoor storage chest in place. I find the best way to set the other ends.

Into the dadoes for the other side is to clamp the ends straight like so. Now I can clamp that whole thing together till that glue sets up. Any glue drips can be cleaned up with a chisel. The part of the chest where the lid attaches to will be exposed to some additional stresses so I wanna beef that portion up. So I’ll glue and tack a ledge to the back. Clean up the glue squeeze out. Then I’ll take a moment to smooth those edges. I’ll take a quarter inch piece to fill this small void here. I planed this down using.

My thickness planer but you can purchase boards in that thickness as well. This final piece gives me a nice solid base to mount the lid to. Speaking of the lid time to glue that up. This is not a tutorial on the proper technique for glue ups. Normally I would glue two or three boards together in groups. Then take those and glue them together to get something this size. However, in this instance, I’m using the cheat method.

Build a BIG Outdoor Storage Bench by Home Repair Tutor

Hi, I’m Jeff Patterson with Home Repair Tutor, and in this tutorial I’m going to show you how to build an awesome outdoor storage bench, like this one here. And the reason why it’s so awesome is because it’s got a ton of storage in it. So whether you’ve got to place toys in there or cushions for your outdoor seating, you’re covered. So let me show you how to build this. It’s fantastic. Let’s get to it. The reason I need the outdoor storage bench is for the cushions of our patio seats. So I needed to remove all the cushions and then stack them to get the height that I need for the storage bench, which I’m going to make out of this 2â€� x 4â€� sheet of ¾â€� plywood.

And this 4â€� lumber. So the plywood, the actual length of it — what I’m going to do is frame the plywood first. But the actual length is 4778â€� wide. The lumber is ¾â€� wide. The long piece of lumber that’s going to frame it is 4938â€�, which I’m marking off here and then going to cut with my circular saw. Set your circular saw to about ¾â€� to accommodate the depth of the lumber. So cut the long pieces of lumber first for the frame. And then measure for the short side of the lumber which, in this case, is 23 78â€� wide. So cut the short pieces and then dryfit all of them together to see if they frame in the plywood, which they do here. Perfect.

Now use Outdoor Wood Screws for this project and Titebond III Wood Glue because it’s waterproof and you can use it for exterior and interior projects. So I predrilled holes into the lumber. Used my rafter square to make sure that it is perfectly 90° to the plywood. So I predrilled all the holes and then screwed that frame to the plywood. And that gives you a nice base to work from, see? We’re going to add castors to the storage bench because it’s huge and it’s going to be heavy. You’ll need 4 coupling nuts. The coupling nuts screw into the castors like so. Get the height of the castor plus the coupling nut to determine the height of the.

Skirt you’re going to add to the bottom of the frame you just built. In this case, I’m just going to use another piece of lumber. Now measure in – I measured in about 3½â€� from the side and the front – and make a mark. That’s where you’re going to position the castor. Now I used a 2â€� screw because it would go through the piece of 2â€� x 4â€� here and not through the plywood. So I attachclamped and screwed in a piece of lumber. Then I used a Speedbor bit to drill a hole into the 2â€� x 4â€�. And that’s where I’m going to put the castors. We’re going to use the Kreg Jig R3 to create pocket holes in our lumber. This is awesome because you can set the depth of the Kreg.

Jig to the depth of your lumber, in this case, ¾â€� thick. You get a drill bit, which you also need to set to the depth of your lumber – again, ¾â€� thick. Clamp the Kreg Jig to your lumber, and then drill your pocket screws. We’re going to use pockets screws to attach the skirt to the frame. In this case, I’m going to opt for coarse screws because coarse screws need to be used for soft woods, and the wood that we’re using is pine so it’s very soft. Attach the skirt to the frame using the coarse jig screws. I still predrilled and screwed the face of the skirt around the frame. So as you can see here, I’m predrilling and then I add this extra wood screws to the skirt.

The last thing I did in this step was pound these coupling nuts into place. So 4 coupling nuts into the 2 pieces of 2â€� x 4â€�. Turn your storage bench over. Now what you’re going to do is build up the sides. Again, add the short sides first, and then add the long sides using the exact same methods that you used to build the skirt. So again, screw in screws for the sides for the corners and then add pocket screws for all the interior support. Screw in the castors to all 4 coupling nuts, and tighten them down using channel locks. Oh, and look how cool this is! Castors are awesome, right? They’re going to allow you to move the storage bench wherever you want.

So again, build up the sides using pocket screws on the interior and then screws, facescrewing on the edges. Pretty simple. And what you end up with is a builtup storage bench where you can put all your cushions. Last step you need to take is build a lid. And what I did is I just built up the cabinet one more row that I needed, and then I removed all the pocket screws. This will give you a perfectly square frame for the lid. Pretty sweet, right? So now what you need to do is add some interior support to it. I just simply added pocket screws to 2 slats – and sometimes it’s easier to add the pocket screws to your wood, by the way – but I added the interior supports.

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