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Home Depot Gasoline Containers

SOLVED Gas Leaks on Lawn Mowers

(Intro Music ♪ ♫) Hi, my name’s Adam and I’m going to be covering gas leaks. Now when you see gas leaking out of your mower it can be easy just a call the repairman and think that all is lost; but there are simple ways to identify the problem and possibly repair yourself and save some money. The first thing you need to do is wipe it off and watch for the drip. If you can wipe it off to a condition where you don’t see any more gas. Then you want to check to see where it’s coming from. There are five spots that I can identify where gas usually leaks out of.

These would be; First the tank. The tank along side of the seam sometimes it’ll get cracked or warped heat will warp it causing the seam to separate so that gas will leak out. Also you want to check around the cap. Caps go bad. Wipe it off, see if it’s leaking around the bottom side of the cap. Second thing you want to check out is the fuel line. Has the fuel line been corroded? Fuel lines go bad pretty quickly; and the rubber will allow fuel to just drip out. Sometimes at the connection on either side of the line will go bad. Fuel lines are cheap,.

They cost five, ten dollars. You can get my Home Depot or order a real online. So change that out if you see fuel leaking from it. Third place that is most common: These are going to be from the carburetor. I have three left. The bottom bolt the gasket that surrounds it. I’ll show you what that looks like. I have a Tecumseh carburetor here and I have one from a briggs stratton model. I’m gonna pull the bolt off the Tecumseh. This is just a 12 inch socket. You can see right here This would be the gasket that would hold fuel from coming out of the bottom of this bowl. Without.

This gasket the bolt wouldn’t be able to hold back much. So you have to have that in place. Put that on the side. Third thing Sorry the fourth in line is a rubber bowl the rubber seal that surrounds the top of part of the bowl. So I’m gonna pull the bowl off. If you can see here this rubber piece seals the bowl up against the carburetor. Without that fuel will leak all around this. and if you see What you want to do is wipe that off and see if it’s dripping from the top side here. Same goes with the the bolt. If you wipe it off and you see fuel coming from the bottom here dripping sometimes you can easily go in and just tighten that real.

Quick. Otherwise you may have forgotten to put the gasket back on the bolt before you put it all back together. On other times this gasket, this one happens to be made of brass can go bad. Others are made of just paper or cardboard type material. In that case you can cut out your own or just buy one. Fifth in line here is your needle and seat. I’m going to open up and show both of these the Tecumseh and the Briggs Stratton model needle and seat.

I’m going to need my needle nose pliers here. Just gonna pull the pin. Then pull this back. There’s my needle that just fell out there. You can see that. Inside here where that needle will sit it that rubber seat. These will go bad and foul out and they’ll become hard and they need to be rubberized so that when this needle sits against it, it stops the flow of fuel coming in. Works a lot like a toilet does in a way that it stops water from continuing to fill the tank until the next flush. So yes, the there’s a kit that’s made by Briggs Stratton I’m sure that there’s a similar one made by.

Tecumseh where you can order. It’s usually the needle and seat that you’ll buy together a kit. You’ll use a tool that I have one that’s made from Tecumseh. My wife said it looked just like her sewing needle. You’ll use this to extract that rubber piece right out of here with this hook, and then you’ll be able to put the other rubber seat right here on the other side of the tool and shove down inside, and twist it so you get a flat surface there. I’ll show you it’s the same way inside the the Briggs Stratton carburetor. Same 12 inch socket here.

How To Make a OneWay Check Valve For Cheap

A checkvalve is an amazing little device that lets a liquid or a gas flow one way only. We’ll need some to make a low cost water pump, but buying them can be a little pricy. So in this project we’ll be making our own, out of common materials, and for less than a dollar. For this project, I’m using a 34quot; male PVC slip adaptor, 34quot; tubing, a 34quot; plastic ball, and an Oring. I chose this adaptor because there’s a little ledge on the inside where the Oring can sit. And it should look like this. The ball needs to be large enough that it won’t push through the throat, but small enough that it doesn’t touch the sides.

Attaching the tube at this point won’t really do any good because the ball will roll right out. We need a way to secure it in position, so let’s make a mark on our tube 58quot; from the bottom and use a 116quot; bit to drill a small hole in the tube, continuing right on through the other side. Now you’ll need a strong piece of metal, like a nail or a thick paperclip. I’m using one of these brad nails that go to my nail gun. Whatever you use, it needs to be strong, and long enough to push all the way through the tube. The ends of the nail will need to be flush with the sides of the pipe, so we can go ahead and clip the end with the nail head on it, and now we’ve got ourselves a retaining bar that’s.

Perfectly flush on both sides. The next step is to prime our connections and place the Oring into place inside the adaptor. Now let’s drop in the ball and double check that everything is seated properly. PVC cement is added to the pipe, making sure it covers the holes where the nail is set. Then the pipe is pushed down to the point where the holes dip just below the rim of the adaptor so that when the glue sets, this connection will be completely airtight. You can build this valve into any length of PVC pipe you want, but I’m using this 112quot; piece because it’s just long enough to accept another adaptor. When it’s glued and pushed together, it makes a nice little compact unit, with only a slight.

Gap separating the two ends. I took the opportunity to make 4 of these valves and a visual inspection on the inside shows that the ball and Oring are still seated properly in place, and the retention bar keeps it all together. To finish up, I gave these a quick paint job, and wrapped one end with a bit of electrical tape to indicate the direction of flow, similar to the marking you’d find on an electrical diode. A fluid can pass freely in one direction, but if the valve is turned around, the pressure closes the valve and the fluid is blocked. The quality of the seal can be tested by dipping the pressurized valve in a bowl of water. This will show us if any.

Air is escaping at all. The pressure can be released though, by pushing up on the inside of the valve to break the seal between the ball and the Oring. I tried using a couple of these valves to make a hand pump, which you’ll be able to find in another project. It’ll compress air, and move water at over 5 gallons per minute. You can even create enough suction to form a makeshift vacuum pump. The threaded ends of the valves make them easy to connect, replace or rearrange whenever needed. Just for curiosity, let’s pressuretest the valve by hooking it up to an air compressor using this pneumatic adaptor that we made in the Rocket Rifle project. The system’s set at 20PSI, and you can see.

The valve close off and prevent any air from leaking. When I crank it up to 50PSI, the pressure difference is a little more obvious by the compression of the Oring, and I’m really impressed at how well it works. As an alternative, I found that a rubber bouncy ball could replace the entire valve mechanism for low pressure applications. Since the ball is rubber, you don’t need an Oring to seal the port. To make it work, just grab a sharp knife and a cutting board, and begin cutting the top third of the ball very slowly, until you’ve sliced right through it. Now reinsert the ball with the round side facing down, and simply slide the tube in overtop. Amazingly it’s that easy, and my kids use it for blowing up balloons. Well.

There’s how to make some useful pressure rated checkvalves for as little as 35¢. If you like this project, perhaps you’ll like some of my others. Check them out at thekingofrandom .

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